Why choose a HEG™ Air Circulation System?
Benefits of a HEG™ Air System
- Whisper quiet, does not transfer noise, variable air flow control, insulated ducting
- Duct from 1 to 6 rooms - all outlets can be individually shut or opened manually
- Reduces wood consumption by up to 35% and can reduce heating-related electricity costs by up to 50%! How? Because bedroom or hallway panel heaters don’t need to be used, and primary heaters can now be set on a “low” setting as the ducting does all the heat transfer to the other rooms now. Save $100’s p.a.
- Drastically reduces or eradicates (a) condensation on windows (b) musty smells and (b) mould due to warmer air temperatures, less humidity & better air circulation.
- Improves air quality and health (less dust mites and mould spores) – great for asthma and allergy sufferers.
HEG are specialists at premium ducted air circulation systems in the 3 to 6 outlet range, focusing on quality to get the job done well! Our components are all best-of-breed, affordable and durable. Experience the HEG Air Circulation difference!
Electrician and Preparation
What tools and equipment do I need?
- Plaster knife, jig saw or reciprocating saw (as appropriate for the ceiling material)
- Drop sheets
- Head torch, spot lights or other lighting suitable for the ceiling
- Gloves, face mask (P2 grade or above recommended) “Cover all” suit
- Cutting blade (e.g. Stanley knife)
- Pliers or wire cutter (as the inner core of the ducting has a wire skeleton, which needs to be cut when shortening lengths of ducting)
Organise an electrician in advance of the install. The electrician will be needed to put a surface socket in the ceiling which is connected to the variable speed fan controller. Depending on the brand of the fan and the type of fan (based on number of ducting outlets it is designed for), it may either have a 3-pin plug (which can be connected to the surface socket once installed), or it may require a lead and 3-pin plug to be installed.
Placement of inlet and outlets
- Find suitable places on the ceiling for the ducting inlets and outlets to go. Typically, place inlet on ceiling about 2 metres out from the heater, in the direction of the bedrooms. If it needs to be further away, that is fine but try not to be more than 5 metres away.
- Try to place outlets in the back half of the room, away from the doorway, with at least ½ metre from the wall.
- Use the appropriate “push out” cardboard templates on the top of the diffusers to cut holes into your ceiling. The larger diffuser is the inlet.
- Do not put the inlet too close to flues or other heat sources, and do not allow the ducting to rest over a downlight. This can be potentially very hazardous if you do, so please beware! Also, do not cover exhaust vents or the manhole cover.
- Before cutting the ceiling, drill a guide hole from above, and ensure you have first checked in the ceiling for obstructions, ceiling joists, wiring or other obstacles. Tip - use the cardboard template in the ceiling cavity to check your spacing.
- If you are ducting to multiple rooms, ensure that the lengths of ducting coming out of the branches (e.g. Y branches) are of equal or similar length. This allows the flow of air to be balanced between the outlets, otherwise one outlet may have a strong flow and the other a weak flow.
- With branches (called Branch Take Offs, or BTO’s), the centre or “straight ahead” air flow is the strongest. The room which is the longest distance from the inlet should receive the strongest flows to compensate for the extra air friction / pressure that it encounters.
- Using the drill hole in the ceiling as a guide, trace around the cardboard diffusers template onto the ceiling using a pencil. Usually the larger diffuser is the inlet. Cut out around the inlet using a plasterers hand saw, jig saw, reciprocator saw or hole cutter (depending on the ceiling construction).
- In the rooms, connect the inlet and outlets to the end of the ducting, then poke the ducting up through the ceiling cavity.
- Use duct tape to bind the internal ducting to the ceiling diffuser neck first (holding back the insulation whilst you do this) then duct tape the external layer to the diffuser neck last.
- The fan should be on the initial length of ducting that connects to the inlet. Place two cable ties around the outer sections of the fan, then loop another cable tie under each of the cable ties. This can then be strung from roof beaers or trusses using rope, chain or other cable ties. Tip – don’t put the fan too close to the inlet as it will allow noise to travel down the ducting. Allow at least to 3 metres of ducting from the inlet to the fan.
- Duct tape the flexible ducting to the branches, diffusers and inline air fan. Ensure you keep the ducting reasonably straight to increase air flow efficiency.
- Organise an electrician to wire in the fan and install the variable speed switch. E&OE.